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#1
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clay for hammond
I'd like to try a clay coated hammond line but don't know the type of clay to use or where to get it. Any help would be appreciated.
__________________ Regards, Fred "Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds". Albert Einstein |
#2
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Hi Fred,
I've heard of people using Satanite instead of clay, although I've not tried this myself...maybe someone with some experience will chime in. If you do need some Satanite, I sell small quantities on my website, just send me an email or give me a call! -Darren __________________ Gas Forges, Refractory, & Knifemaking Supplies Refractory.EllisCustomKnifeworks.com Visit the Forge Gallery - forge building resource pages ForgeGallery.EllisCustomKnifeworks.com |
#3
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Many years ago, there was an article in one of the knife magazines that had the ingredients in it for the clay. I'll try to dig it out tonight and post it.
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#4
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I never liked satanite for the clay coat, but there are alot out there using it who swear by it. Too fragile for me, but I tend to bang things around alot.
The key to success with clay coating as far as i'm concerned is to put it on as thin as you can get away with. Usually just under 1/8" at it's thickest the way I do it. And dry it out before firing (a low-temp bake around 200 degrees will get all the moisture out and stop the 'pop-corn' effect). I like and use Parks (or parker, can't remember right now) furnace cement rated at 3000 degrees. It can be a bit of a pain to scrape off the blade if you're used to satanite, but a cheap-o whetstone scrubs it off pretty well. Anything that sticks to the blade and keeps the water off for around one second will work with the 10XX steels. If your clay falls off early in the quench, wrap some wire around it, either while it's wet or after it's dried. Keeps everything in place. To get some of the really cool effects in the hamon, walk the line between nonmagnetic and try out different thicknesses of the clay. http://www.mcmaster.com has the furnace cement, but any brand will work if you're lucky enough to have a good hardware store. |
#5
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http://www.engnath.com/public/manframe.htm
Here is where I get most of my info on many things. This is the late Bob Engnaths site. He has devoted many pages to clay coating and HTing. Ken (wwjd) __________________ Ken (wwjd) http://www.wacoknives.com "One Nation Under God" |
#6
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Found it! The recipe was regular pottery clay, fireclay, and powdered charcoal. (I'm pretty sure they mean pure wood charcoal, not Kingsford.) Equal parts each, adjust amounts to suit your needs.
This article also showed how the maker got some pretty cool patterns by adding thicker lines of clay with a brass rod. He added them in a pattern perpendicular to the length of the blade. Made for a pretty neat (and complicated) hamon. |
#7
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Temper line
Thanks guys. I'm trying to digest this information and see what the easiest way to go is. I've been looking for some of the materials on the net but haven't found anything yet. I'll check the yellow pages and see whats available around here.
__________________ Regards, Fred "Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds". Albert Einstein |
#8
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you can get furnace cement from any home depot or lowes and you can get satanite from K&G.
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#9
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Thanks Mark, I follow up on that.
__________________ Regards, Fred "Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds". Albert Einstein |
#10
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clay
Darren Ellis has the stuff in small quanities and is a good guy to deal with.I`ve used both and like the santinite better.
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#11
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Sairset is a wet fieplace mortar, good for forge repair. It will work fine for clay hardening blades. A 5 quart pail was only $14 and change.
Ken __________________ Ken (wwjd) http://www.wacoknives.com "One Nation Under God" |
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blade, forge, knife |
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