D2 finishing and marking

[smithclif]

It's great to have a resource like this. Thanks to all involved.

I use D2 steel and have been happy with the results I have been getting except in two areas;

1) on the final polish I get a clouding on parts of the blade, when I try to polish it out I can make the cloud move but can't seem to remove it. I didn't know if this is from heat or the grindging compound. If anyone knows please help.

2) The last thing I do before sharpening the knife is Electro-Chem Etch my name in the blade. This works good 50% of the time the other 50% the stencil moves or leaks and causes a disaster and a lot more work to clean it up. I have been thinking of using a steel stamp to put my name on the blade before heat treating but do not know how well it would work on D2. If anyone has had good success with any marking system I am open to suggestions, please remember the budget is not very high for this item.

Thanks in advance
Cliff Smith
Calgary, Canada
smithclif@yahoo.com

[Brett Bennett]

Cliff,

Welcome to the CKD.
D2 is a tough one to polish and tends to 'orange peel', but I suspect your problem lies with the compound you are using. Be sure you are finishing with a 'No Scratch Pink' or white rouge.
Are you taping your stencil to the steel on at least three sides? If you still have leakage problems, try using a little less electrolyte. I soak my pad and tamp it several times on a paper towel before using it. Also, a stamp will work on D2 as long as the steel is in an annealed state.

[smithclif]

Brett,
Thanks for the info.
I'm using a white compound for the first buffing, and a green jewelers compound for the final buffing. The clouding happens with the white, I'll check to see if I have the "white rouge." I dont know what "orange peel" means, please explain what it is and how I can avoid it.
I only tape 2 sides of my stencil because I check after 10 sec. to see how deep the etching is. Sometimes it etches deep in 10 sec. sometimes it takes almost 60 sec. to do the same thing. Mabey part of the problem is the stencil, my stencil source is no longer so if you know of any good sources in Canada please advise.
The stamp idea still intrests me, what do you mean when you say it has to be "in an annealed state" to be stamped?
Thank you again and Merry Christmas to all.
Cliff

[Brett Bennett]

Cliff,

Orange peel is typically caused by overbuffing, but some steels are more prone to it than others. The texture resembles an orange peel.
When I used to buff, I used 'Matchless Green' followed by 'No-scratch Pink'. They aren't good for removing anything but the finest scratches, so you will need to go to about 2000 grit prior to polishing with these compounds.
If your stencil is not physically moving, you may be using too much electrolyte, too high an amperage, or are holding the stamp/pad on the steel for too long causing the steel to become too hot and affecting the stencil. Just some ideas.
By annealed, I mean that the steel is in its softest state. Most steel comes from the factory this way. If it drills easily, it will stamp easily also.
Hope that helps you out some.

[Jerry Hossom]

I have never seen a good polish on D2, certainly nothing like what is achieved with other steels. It's a lot like CPM's in that regard. A lot of the graininess you see in the finished steel is in fact IN the steel, and not the orange peel effect.

On your marking problem, I found I needed to seal the edges of the stencil with tape around the edges on both sides, top and bottom, to ensure no leakage. With that done, it goes pretty well and cleanly. Be sure to use the cleaning solution that is provided by the same people who sell the electrolyte. That helps.

[whv]

the knife in this post has about as high a shine as i've seen on d2, but i have no idea what his polishing schedule is. perhaps you could send him a pm or email to find out.

[EightPointBuck]

I have a Friend up In Canada... and have always gotten D2 Carbon Steel Blades in my Knives... and they always look great. I can hook you up with his e-mail if interested. :cool:

[smithclif]

Eight Point,
Would like the e-mail to your buddy in Canada.
Thanks "eh",
Cliff

[tmickley]

On the stencil problem; first no peeking
Keep it on until you are done, otherwise it will be fuzzy.
Try using electrical vinyl tape on all four sides to hold it down and flat. When etching, hold for 3 seconds, lift, back for 3 and so on. Expirement with settings on your machine, if any, and how many times you 'burn'. Once you have it consistant, use that every time. My 'successful' settings and # of applications is written in magic marker right on my machine stand so I have there every time. I forget things - which isn't all bad.
60 seconds sounds like a long time. Most etches I've heard of take around 10 'burns' of 2 to 3 seconds for deep etch and 4 or 5 to blacken the deep etch. This will vary according to machines amperage.

[EightPointBuck]

I tired to post here with my reply last night... from my webtv.
However webtv must not be compatible with this Board. I'd log in, and it would say thanks for logging in, only to take me back to the drawing board. That Bulletin Message.
Anyway, I'll e-mail you Derrick e-mail address... the Fella in Canada that works with D2 alot.

[Kelly Carlson]

I use D2 for most of my folder blades, and the only way I have been able to get a nice shine is with pink rouge after working up to 2400+ grit finishing papers. Fortunately, I prefer satin finishes.
For etching - having been there, I can confirm the prior recommendations - damp, not wet pad; tape the stencil securely; and no peeking. If you are satin finishing, some degradation can be cleaned up with light, additonal sanding if your imprint is deep enough.