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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel. |
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#16
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Hey Jerry, that wouldn't be some ne'er do well maker out in the islands that you were referring to was it??
I've been really happy with the Norax edges that I've been producing lately. Like Jerry said, I start with the x100 and then progress to the x5 for a nice shiny wire edge. Then a very light buff or strop on a leather belt and it's good to go! It seems like the smoother the edge the better it cuts which makes perfect sense from a friction standpoint. Last edited by PeterAtwood; 11-23-2002 at 08:13 PM. |
#17
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Actually it's another ne'er do well in Tennessee.
Not only does that smooth edge cut well, but I think it lasts longer. The rough finished edges that some people like, cut like micro-serrations. The problem with that is that the points on those micro-serrations go away pretty quickly and you're left with a very dull blade. Further, the fine-finished edge resists micro-chipping better IMO. |
#18
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Craig,
This was also posted as a separate thread a couple of weeks ago when we discussed differential heat treatment for different parts of the blade as an alternative method of dealing with strength vs cutting profile issue. As it turns out, the idea works for carbon steels (which was what I was referring to) but clearly is different for stainless and high alloy steels which don't have the "linear" properties of carbon steels (ie.- hard = brittle, softer = tougher). But yes, it seems to work on my carbon steel blades. I use O-1 almost exclusively, and the technique works well for fine tipped blades. I temper to a bright blue. Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
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