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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 10-11-2014, 12:34 PM
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I've heard much over the years about 'glue-starved joints'. This term was also common during my boat buiding odyssey. Yet, I've never experienced any negative effects of tight clamping with knifemaking.

I occasionally use Corbys but mostly, I peen using N/S pins. I think of the mechanical bond as the primary bond and the epoxy as a sealant/secondary bond. With some hollowed out cavities and roughed surfaces, it always seems to work because the 'starved' part of the joint is really just the perimeter. The cavities allow excellent epoxy bonding to back up the peening.

That's just my two bits...


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Last edited by Andrew Garrett; 10-11-2014 at 12:37 PM.
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  #17  
Old 10-12-2014, 05:33 AM
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You can also scuff or knurl your pins before installation so that they will hold just a smidgen of glue to help lock in place. Anneal first then place on hard flat surface like a bench anvil or block of steel. Roll under a coarse cut file with a little pressure and whala, knurled pins.


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  #18  
Old 10-12-2014, 08:27 AM
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Cool idea!

I've always had to reduce my pin diameter, which is always bigger than advertised. I do so by rolling it between my fingers on a 60 grit slack belt. This reduces it fast and gives it a course texture.

I'm gonna try your way next. Thanks.


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  #19  
Old 10-12-2014, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Garrett View Post

I do so by rolling it between my fingers on a 60 grit slack belt. This reduces it fast and gives it a course texture.
same here , works well....


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art, back, blade, buffalo horn, edge, epoxy, flat, guard, handle, handle material, handles, horn, hot, knife, material, pins, press, sander, scales, shop, solutions, tang, warping, wood, woods


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