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Heat Treating and Metallurgy Discussion of heat treatment and metallurgy in knife making.

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Old 08-27-2007, 05:12 AM
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edge / clay quenching stainless

I'm aware that most blade-quality stainless blends require very specific temps and soak times, etc to achieve the desired effect during HT. BUT...

Most data sheets list oil as an acceptable quenching medium for say, 154CM. Why couldn't a guy do the HT as he normally would for that alloy and then do an edge quench in tempurature controlled oil to harness the benefits of a differentially heat treated blade?

I've just never heard of anyone doing this and wondered why.


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Old 08-27-2007, 09:27 AM
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Because with something like 154CM whether you quench in oil or air you get the same structure - Martensite ! To edge quench the hardness difference would be a coup[le of points [1-2 HRc] not enough to to give the "benefits" of differencially hardened blades.
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:46 PM
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Ok. What about clay quenching then? The clay would keep the spine hot and protect it from the hardening effect of the air. A good dunk in some heated oil should do the trick ehh?


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Old 08-28-2007, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Garrett
Ok. What about clay quenching then? The clay would keep the spine hot and protect it from the hardening effect of the air. A good dunk in some heated oil should do the trick ehh?
The spine would still cool way too fast. Sorry.
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Old 08-30-2007, 07:23 AM
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Ya need very low alloy steel for the clay quench to be successful. Even 01 and 5160 will harden up under the clay, but will produce a quench line when edge quenched.


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Old 08-30-2007, 08:02 AM
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hmm... thanks guys.

I'll assume that a torch draw on the spine would fail as well.


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Old 08-30-2007, 08:43 AM
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Yep,

Stainless (high alloy) steel is very picky about how it's heat treated. Has to be treated just right, to make a decent blade.

The simpler the steel (stainless or carbon) the better I like it. The new super alloys are not so super, in my opinion.


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