Forge design, what do you like?

[Crex]

Austin, I'll try to remember to send you some pics if I can find them. Not going to waste space here kicking Granny's dead cat. Most of us have posted or linked forge plans and details several times over the years here. Do a "search" (get a bag of popcorn and a soda first). Lots of reading.

[Imakethings]

Aye, this is the whole reason I'm soliciting feedback to refine my design ideas before I build anything else. Granted there is a lot to wade through, but I'm trying to get my design 'right' or as close to it as I can manage.

[Imakethings]

Ok, so no side door and make it swirl.

How about this?

[Crex]

Couple of things you might consider before settling on a design:
1 - What size blades (and steel) are you most likely to be using/forging? Issues like back-door access and/or blocking ability; width of projects, etc.
2 - Do you plan to do forge welding in this forge? Horizontal is usually preferred over vertical due to flux corrosivness, accumulation, and repair issues. Most fluxes will go through soft and medium firebrick like gas through styrofoam. Usually better to have a second forge for welding (if designed right the same torch(es) can be used for both.
3 - What are the sizes of the torches and their potential output? Torch to chamber size can get critical, Too much torch and you burn most of your fuel outside the forge chamber not so good for a lot of reasons. It always helps to have two modes of torch control...a regulator for pressure and needle valve for feed rate (they are not the same thing), a combination give you much better control over heat and fuel efficiency.

Note: It takes a little while for the heat to stabilize within the forge. When it does, it changes the dynamics of the "burn" and you will just have to learn how to regulate the fuel feed and pressure for the best efficiency and heat levels. Most of us do it by ear once we get familiar with our forges.

4 - Is the forge to be portable, semi-portable, non-portable? If you wind up doing demos, hammer-ins, etc. portability is important and being able to partially disassemble is nice. Also, weight is a factor with this.
5 - Are you going to use high temp soft medium or hard fire brick? Each has different issues - weight, durability, heat adsorbtion, insulation (R) factor - these affect warmup time, heat holding ability, and portability issues.

The revised design looks good, would recommend rotating the torch ports (or whole body) around counter clockwise 90 degrees so that they enter low from the side. As they are you will still suffer hotspots where the torch is blowing almost directly on the steel. Give it more time to spread out the heat as it hits the curve of the interior and you will get more even heating results.

[Imakethings]

1 - What size blades (and steel) are you most likely to be using/forging?
Largest I'm going to be working is 24", tops. Even that is unlikely, usually I stick between 12 to 16 inch blades.

2 - Do you plan to do forge welding in this forge?
Maybe, but probably not, I've never really liked doing damascus much so I don't see myself doing it in this forge in the near future.

3 - What are the sizes of the torches and their potential output?
I make my own burners, they're similar to hybrid burners. Still refining the design a bit to get it right, but getting there. I integrate needle valves on to the burner assembly.

4 - Is the forge to be portable, semi-portable, non-portable?
I've got two smaller forges that work fine for toting around. I'm thinking this one will be semi-portable.

5 - Are you going to use high temp soft medium or hard fire brick?
Hard brick for the floor with an extra inch of kaowool under that if I can figure out how to do it neatly. The walls and top will be done out of soft brick.

Taking your advice into consideration made me change the design and angle of entry for the burners into the chamber.

[Fulmaduro]

If i may suggest, flip the forge/pic 180 and then you will have an angle that will allow the flames to circulate properly. As it sits I would imagine you have 2 ready made hot spots directly onto the steel. Just my opinion.

Tony Z
Kansas City, MO

[Fulmaduro]

This angle I built into my forge has been great. Gets to welding temp with one venturi and circulates the flame, coming into the forge in the upper right of forge interior. Pic shows forge running at 3psi. It cranks all the way up to 30psi. This was built out of an old portable air tank and has one layer of Kaowool, Satanite, and ITC-100. Floor is Bubble Alumina. I have a piece of wrought iron anchor chain heating up inside to hammer into a bar for guards.

Tony Z.
Kansas City, MO

http://www.freepicturehosting.com/is...g=DSC03854.JPG

[Crex]

Appears I didn't make that quite clear on rotating the diagram. Don't change the angle of entry, but rotate the cylinder. This will put the torch flame aimed at the top of the forge not the bottom.
Looking to get as much rotation/swirl with the flame as possible before it nears the steel. It will heat more efficiently. Similar to what TZ shows just lower down.
Looks like you have studied up on the rest of the items already - good deal.
On the hard firebrick floor, take a masonary cut off disc in your side grinder and slice the brick in halves or thirds (if your careful). Then you can lay in a heavier layer of k-wool underneath and you will have less heat adsorbtion with plenty of toughness/durability. I have started slotting this hard brick front to back side to side to provide a little heat flow under the steel and the slots also allow you to stand the steel on edge for certain applications. Not sure if it helps that much but hasn't hurt.

[Imakethings]

Oh! Now I get it, more 3d rendering to follow.

Granted I've said that before, but I really mean it this time.

[Imakethings]

Right, so here's what I'm understanding based upon pictures and feedback received thus far:

[racjarrett88]

A little more to the right and i think you will have it.

[Imakethings]

Update on forge design, Feedback?

[racjarrett88]

This forge will be used for damascus if that makes any difference

[Imakethings]

Originally Posted by racjarrett88

This forge will be used for damascus if that makes any difference

What he said.

Also, this is just the forge body. No supports or anything, just trying to get the body done and figured out right. The burners are set to blow in around 20 degrees and are set about 4.5 inches apart and the whole forge is 16 inches long and 12 inches in diameter. I'm anticipating 3-4 inches of kaowool with satanite lining between each layer and bubble alumina on the floor.

[Crex]

Not sure you will gain anything with the extra satanite between layers of wool. The wool is an insulator and the Satanite is more for rigidizing the surface of the wool. It also serves as a stiff base for the ITC 100 to be painted on. I think the extra effort will just be wasted time/material.
Note: make sure you dampen the wool just a bit before applying the satanite, it will adhere much better and go on easier.
Make sure on your design you have enough base to maintain balance and stability if/when you need to adjust the torches. Don't need a tip over while running or hot. I've seen it happen.