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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:22 PM
irishknifeworks irishknifeworks is offline
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JB Weld Question

I've given up on soldering guards on hidden tang knives. I'm going to try JB Weld. How do you guys clean up JB Weld around the joint both before and after it cures?
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:22 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Before it cures I use WD-40 on a cotton tip applicator or paper towel to wipe away any stray epoxy. It's best not to let cleaning up the excess and stray globs until after curing but I have use a chisel like tool made from a 1/4" or so rod of brass to chip and scrape it away without marking the steel.

Doug


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Old 09-30-2013, 03:00 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I use a slightly different method. It's very easy but you do have to follow the instructions closely. Simply put, this is the method:

1. Glob the freshly mixed JB onto the tang. Slide the guard on pushing the JB ahead of it. This gets the JB inside the guard slot and also makes a big bead of JB all around the slot.

2. Wait...I said WAIT exactly 10 minutes for the JB to partially set up. Take a damp...that's DAMP, not wet..paper towel and wipe off the excess JB. until the guard is perfectly clean.

That's it. If you will do it precisely that way the JB will be set just enough so that the damp towel will not pull it out of the seam between the guard and the tang. Do it too soon and it pulls out the JB leaving a depression visible, too late and the JB is clotted and chunks can be pulled out and it's more difficult to clean. When done 'just right' you get a nice filet just like you would if you were really good at soldering and there is no other clean up needed at all.....


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Old 09-30-2013, 03:36 PM
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racjarrett88 racjarrett88 is offline
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That sounds like a good idea Ray but humidity and temperature could change timing a little right?

Austin


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Old 09-30-2013, 03:41 PM
irishknifeworks irishknifeworks is offline
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Awesome guys, thank you so much!
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:14 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Sure Austin, it could and probably will. But, I think if you stay with the basic 10 minutes - and I mean actually watch the clock on the timing - you'll find that there is a small amount of flex in there and you'll quickly figure out if you need to adjust....


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Old 09-30-2013, 04:32 PM
WBE WBE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racjarrett88 View Post
That sounds like a good idea Ray but humidity and temperature could change timing a little right?

Austin
Epoxies dry/harden by oxygen and heat generated by chemical reaction. Humidity should have no effect, but ambient temperature will. On hot days it will kick faster. Put it in a freezer, and most will stop working until you warm them back up. You can speed the hardening by putting the epoxied piece under a light bulb, or some other hot, but not too hot condition. That can be over done.

Last edited by WBE; 09-30-2013 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:36 PM
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racjarrett88 racjarrett88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WBE View Post
Epoxies dry/harden by oxygen and heat generated by chemical reaction. Humidity should have no effect, but ambient temperature will. On hot days it will kick faster. Put it in a freezer, and most will stop working until you warm them back up. You can speed the hardening by putting the epoxied piece under a light bulb, or some other hot, but not too hot condition. That can be over done.
Good to know

thanks, Austin


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Old 10-01-2013, 06:17 AM
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I do a slightly different version of what Ray described.
Get the guard fitted up nice and tight after cleaning carefully. "Paint" the choil and guard surface areas and surrounding surface with a small camel hair brush using BC stock wax (semi-liquid). Let dry, disassemble and apply JB as Ray described, reinstall. Allow about 1/2 hour to start setting up (I never use quickset mix). A sharpened popcicle stick will remove the epoxy with just a push and leave a clean seam (f your fit is correct). No scratches.
I prefer not to use WD40 or acetone as both react with the epoxy by breaking the bond. A little too much and you have compromised the epoxy set.


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Old 10-01-2013, 12:49 PM
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I made me a chiseling tool made from a 1/4 inch of Soft brass to scrape it away it will Not Mar the steel.
I use a Very small amount of melted bees wax mix and coat my blade and where I do not want the JB weld or Epoxy to bond . it comes off very easy .

Sam


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  #11  
Old 10-10-2013, 05:17 AM
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don't give up on solder just yet. jb weld works great, but I don't think it looks very good on a high polished blade IMHOP. soldering is an art in its self and takes time to master. have you watched steve johnsons subhilt video? if not you need to, he explaines tons of tips on fine knife making.
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Old 10-11-2013, 06:08 AM
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If your joints are tight and right the JB doesn't show.


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  #13  
Old 10-12-2013, 03:47 AM
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thats true, and I think that jb looks great when put with a damascus blade.
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