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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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How should I go about attaching a .50 cal BMG shell as a handle to a knife blade?
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...size=640%2C480
I have been trying to figure what epoxy I should use to connect my hidden tang blade to a .50 cal BMG shell casing. Has anyone tried to do this before? I've seemed to have success using JB Weld SteelStik, but I no longer have access to the two knives I made to see how they're holding up. What do you think? Last edited by EliW0894; 02-15-2015 at 02:10 AM. Reason: Added Picture |
#2
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I'd probably add some fiber material to the epoxy, like wood shavings or the like and "shallow" notch up the tang just a bit for more glue grip. Should out live most of us.
Have done this with springbok horn and worked great. Fella ran over the knife with his truck !?!?!?! cracked the horn, but I still had to bust off the rest with a big hammer then torch off the residual glue to rehandle. Any good high quality epoxy doesn't need much to get a secure grip just a little roughness. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#3
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I used AcraGlas on this 20mm casing. The opening at the mouth of the case was fitted with a brass plug which I had slotted the same way I would slot a guard. As Carl mentioned, the tang was notched so the glue could get a good grip. This cleaver gets used on a farm for butchering and it has held up for many years so far....
Last edited by Ray Rogers; 03-08-2015 at 09:29 PM. |
#4
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CRex, is there a specific brand you would recommend using?
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#5
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As Ray mentioned Acraglas is pretty serious stuff for long term durability. Check out the "glue wars" thread if you really want to get confused.
Just use a quality slow cure epoxy (24 hr type). The fast cure seems to degrade when subjected to large changes in temp and impact issues. Nothing wrong with JB Weld either. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#6
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There are resins that are used to encase things like spiders or rattlesnake heads that could be used to fill the case, but I suspect the cost would be higher than epoxy.
Remember that if you're using an adhesive - like epoxy - that it's designed to hold things together with a small gap. In order to make it hold all the way through, it needs a filler like fiberglass or sawdust. __________________ God bless Texas! Now let's secede!! |
#7
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Ok. Now I have another question. Since I'm putting this inside a shell casing with a small opening, how do I mix the epoxy and then pour it in without it getting incredibly messy and without it drying before I finish?
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#8
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To use epoxy without making a mess, put the correct amount of resin and hardener in a zip lock plastic bag. Squeeze most of the air out of the bag before sealing it. Kneed the epoxy until mixed and then cut the corner off of the bag and squeeze the epoxy into your empty shell.
On another note, if you use fast hardener and want to extend the working time or make multiple pours, keep a cool aluminum plate next to your work, and lay the plastic bag out flat on the plate between pours. |
#9
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No matter how you get the epoxy in you are going to have air entrapment at some point. Two ways around that:
1-drill a small air relief hole near the base or through the primer. 2-place a the smallest coffee stirrer/straw down in the casing prior to pouring the epoxy; cut the tip of the straw at an angle before inserting; draw out slowly once filled. Either of these will "burp" the air out. If you carefully clean and wax all the outside surfaces prior to gluing up, you can peal the excess off once it hardens up just past the rubbery stage. Yeah there will be a little messy overage if you do it right, no biggy, it will clean up with acetone or wd40. The longer cure time epoxies give you the extra time you will need to get it plus the fiber filler into the casing, seat and align the blade. Put some newspaper down and keep a lot of rags handy. Have fun! __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#10
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Alright guys. Thanks for the advice and making me feel like an idiot for not realizing all of this before. lol I do have one more question however. When it comes to mixing in the saw dust, is there a specific kind of way I should go about doing that to maximize effectiveness?
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#11
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I'll give you something to consider. When you add anything to the epoxy you're going to diminish the adhesion of it. I've never been one to rely completely on any type of glue to hold two pieces together. I like to have a mechanical bond as well. Something that you might consider is to thread the back of your tang, run it through the primer hole of the casing and screw on a threaded pommel nut. This would add a lot of strength to the handle.
Just something to think about. Gary __________________ Gary ABS,CKCA, ABKA,KGA |
#12
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Mix the resin and hardener before adding the fiber, wood flower, saw dust.
Another note, the epoxy is going to get hot, depending on a lot of variables this may cause a problem. It is advisable to have a glass of cold water available to draw off the heat. The water won't hurt the epoxy. |
#13
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I use metal grinding dust as an additive to epoxy. Denatured Alcohol will clean away epoxy extremely well. I agree with Ray , Acra-Glas is the best adhesive I have ever used . All that I use now.
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Tags |
bee, blade, brand, brass, custom, daggers, epoxy, fixed blade, grip, guard, hammer, handle, hidden, hidden tang, horn, knife, knife blade, knives, made, material, notch, tang, weld, wood, wwii |
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