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Old 08-06-2016, 12:35 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,345
If I make the guard to big, I just make another guard, but if it is just a little too wide then you may be able to hammer it thinner, but if it's too long? Blade should hide that. Filling it depends on how big the gap is, you don't say, but if it's only about the thickness of a piece of paper then epoxy or solder will be fine. If it's thicker than 1/32" then make a new guard as it will be obvious.

Here is a trick and don't tell anyone I told you, but before you put the guard on, solder a bead around the front of the guard and sand flat and carefully file it to fit with a needle file.

I almost never make a slot too big as I lay out the hole ahead and scribe my center line and the centerline of the drill size I use. I counter punch them carefully and put into a small vise that fits on my cross slide table. My table is like a mini mill table with little hold down blocks and every thing. I have number drills too, some carbide like a #30 which is .128 a nice clearance for an 1/8 pin. through a hardened hidden tang so no missing the hole. I go thru the wood and tang all at once. Remember when drilling stainless or hardened material, slow RPM is your friend.

Oh to add something, I never make a guard out of aluminum as you can't solder it and it dulls up fast and I never buy pre-made guards as they almost never fit right I guess as I have never actually bought one as they cost too much. Just like premade sheaths, $20+ for a plain one?!!

Last edited by jimmontg; 08-06-2016 at 01:36 PM.
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