[samuraistuart]

Note...I have not used it, but know a little about it.

If you note the composition of Sandvick's 14c28n.....it is about identical to Aldo's Nitro V. 14c28n was Sandvick's response to a slightly more wear resistant, and slightly more corrosion resistant, steel over their 13c26 (AEB-L). It has the same HT as AEB-L.

A word about "cryo" and "sub zero", again, just to make sure we are all on the same page:
1. "CRYO", is LN2 temps, ~-300F. Cryo is done for 2 reasons, mainly. Convert retained austenite into untempered martensite (that gets tempered later). Also to permit the formation of super small "eta" carbides (upon tempering). These super small carbides actually increase toughness AND wear resistance, by the added cohesion they give the overall matrix. Only the VERY highly alloyed steels NEED cryo. It is simply the fact that their martensite finish temperature is well below even sub zero dry ice temperature.
2. "Sub Zero", is dry ice slurry temps, ~-100F. Sub Zero does only one thing, mainly. Converts retained austenite into untempered martensite (that gets tempered later). It is NOT cold enough to permit eta carbide precip. It is done to convert RA in the lower alloyed stainless and tool steels, like AEB-L, Nitro V, etc.

You SHOULD, and I do stress SHOULD, be doing AT LEAST a sub zero (dry ice and denatured alcohol slurry) treatment with AEB-L, Nitro V, and the like. The martensite finish temperature of AEB-L is right around -100F. If you do not address the retained austenite in such steels, your edge stability will suffer, because RA is a relatively soft structure, similar in hardness to pearlite, and is not ideal.

The sub zero is done immediately after your plate quench, before tempering. If you do a snap temper before sub zero, you are automatically STABILIZING the very retained austenite you are trying to convert. Deal with any possible/perceived distortion by some other method than relying on a snap temper.

As for what quench is best? If the plate quench gives you the HRC you are looking for, then it's fine. You can oil quench these steels. A2 is an air/plate quenching steel, it is often oil quenched...as is D2. Not a fast oil, but a medium speed oil. Or canola. I believe these steels are very predictable, and the numbers fall right where they should using plate quenching. Forced air is plenty fine with the plate quench...no issue at all. Should be around 62 post plate quench, and 63, possibly 64 after sub zero, or cryo.

edited to add (almost forgot!):
The vanadium is an extremely small amount. This small amount will not form any primary vanadium carbides....it is strictly there to keep aus grain small, by pinning grain boundaries. It will not contribute to wear resistance.
The nitrogen is there to form nitrides, which are harder than carbides. But also, it is an extremely small amount. The added nitrogen will free up some of the chromium as well, making it slightly more corrosion resistant.