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Old 02-17-2011, 05:01 AM
JeffreyPrater JeffreyPrater is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Hueysville, KY
Posts: 130
The table is 3" x 7" made of 1/2 inch plate steel.

I milled a 3/4" wide 3/8" deep slot in the top.
I milled a piece of steel to fit the slot and surface ground the entire top.

On the backside I milled two slots and drilled from the back into the piece
of steel that slides. I threaded the holes and you can see there are two
button cap screws on the back that you loosen and adjust the distance
between the pivot point of the blade and the pivot pin of the spring. This is
very important ( I learned the hard way).

I milled a groove on the top of the table so the indicator would lay down closer
to the table.

The holder for the indicator is just a piece of aluminum with a hole drilled thru it
to fit the indicator shaft.
The aluminum is bolted to the side of the table with two screws.

I drilled and tapped four holes and screwed on four little feet as you can see.

This was built from items I had on hand, there is no specific reason it has to be as big as this.
The most important thing (IMHO) is the slide that allows you to adjust the spring and blade to the same distance in the liner.

I used one liner, laid it on the pins sticking up in the table and after the pins are in place
tighten the screws on the backside and remove the liner and you have it.

One other thing I have noticed the metal table needs to be thick enough for you pin to be rather solid, the deeper the holes for your pins the less slack or movement they will have when you are setting up a blade and spring.

If you have questions I will do my best to answer, and I'm sure Don could shed some insight as well.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg table199.jpg (53.9 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg Table200.jpg (59.3 KB, 76 views)
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File Type: jpg IMAG0205.jpg (58.8 KB, 65 views)
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File Type: jpg IMAG0207.jpg (44.5 KB, 70 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0209.jpg (49.3 KB, 67 views)

Last edited by JeffreyPrater; 02-17-2011 at 06:09 PM.
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