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Whether or not it sounds good depends on what you expect to accomplish. If you are trying to make your forge flux proof that isn't going to happen that way (if its possible at all).
You need something to bind the wool fibers - that's what the Satanite is good for. At a minimum you need the Satanite.
If you want to increase the heat efficiency, i.e., keep more heat in your forge that's what the ITC-100 is for and it would go over the Satanite. Personally, I never felt the results from ITC-100 warranted the cost.
If you want to flux proof your forge floor that's what the Bubble Alumina is for. I used it, it works very well while it lasts but dragging heavy billets in and out of the forge destroyed it pretty quickly. With just blades and a careful touch it will last longer.
If your wool isn't melting or sagging then the 2400 is good enough. If it is sagging then the higher temp wool could help or the ITC-100 could help because it reflects the heat for as long as it lasts. Flux will destroy anything it touches including Bubble Alumina (slowly) and some things faster than others. Also, forges are hot (or should be) and that much heat softens anything you put in there so Bubble Alumina, Satanite, and even Missou are much easier to damage when hot. That means dragging billets in and out tears things up, flux tears things up, so being careful not to scrape the floor or bump the walls of your forge will do more to make the interior last longer than any coating you can put on it. This is life with horizontal forges.
You need the Satanite, painted on thin as house paint. Expect to repaint periodically depending on how much the forge is used. The rest of that stuff is optional, try it out if you have the spare cash otherwise don't worry about it ...
Except for the Satanite, none of that is essential for simple HTing. You can use it and it will help but its mostly a waste of money in my opinion. If your forge isn't hot enough a better burner is probably a better solution than any kind of coating.
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