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Old 08-25-2016, 02:35 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,345
Red face Some basics on carbide drill bits and drilling in general

I almost always drill my hole before HT anyway Dtech. Those carbides are expensive. My most expensive one is a carbide tipped 6.5mm or .255 for quarter inch thong holes. I never use pins that big. Biggest I go on pins is 3/16 loveless bolts. No reason, just my idea of style. I like small pins/screws/rivets. I have 1/8" loveless as well, very nice and fine. I do make mosaics up to 3/16" though using either stainless tubing or brass, but I do prefer the look of small pins. I made a filet knife for my son with 12 pins. (See my wavy knives album.) That was a pain in the rear, but it turned out nice though. I save drilling after HT for guards and bolsters after final grind.

I try to keep it around four to six pins per full tang, but I drill the holes before HT. I also always make the holes in the tang oversize by a few thousandths. For an 1/8" pin I use a #30 or .128 drill bit as it leaves room for some expansion and for the glue to flow. a number 41 drill bit for 3/32 again just a few thousandths bigger. I drill an oversize hole in the wooden tang material as well. You are not going to see the difference between a 3/16 .187 pin and a #12 .189 hole. Makes it easier and a tight pin squeezes all the glue out of the hole.

You don't need a whole number drill set, just the ones you use. Jobber drill bits are a whole lot cheaper than carbide drill bits and less prone to breaking. I know how to sharpen a carbide drill bit and you need diamond to do it so it isn't as bad for me. BTW in stainless slow your drill speed down as slow as you can, especially with carbide and keep it cool and lubed. I use Tap Magic and take small bites, just any old oil isn't the same as a cutting oil. plus it's great on sharpening oil stones and micron sanding belts. Remember you should not try to drill material more than double to triple the diameter of your bit thickness with carbide tipped. A drill press and solid hold down is an absolute necessity. If the part moves the bit breaks.

Just some advice to anybody out there who may not know the ins and outs of drilling, especially stainless. Aluminum the smaller the drill bit the higher the speed, but not with stainless, you will melt your drill bit. Something I did the first week I worked in the metal field. Also the bigger the drill bit the slower the speed. Simple stuff, but maybe somebody doesn't know.

Let me advise you to look up Grainger Industrial supply. They are where everyone of my carbide bits come from. Solid carbide is expensive I have two spade shaped bits a #30 and a #41 clearance for 1/8 and 3/32. Every other one is carbide tipped. Look and see if they have a distribution center near you and if they do you won't have to pay shipping. Dtech, there is no reason why your carbides shouldn't last longer. Look at my advice above. Carbide and stainless means slow rpm drilling speed. Keep that in mind and hardened knives means slow as well. Use Tap Magic and take small bite, then add oil, small bite add oil. Heat is your enemy and carbide chips and breaks easily, be careful.

Last edited by jimmontg; 08-25-2016 at 02:52 PM.
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