[Crex]

I do it much the same way Ed does but use Birchwood Casey Stock Wax (liquid/paste) instead of PJ. Lot less messy and doesn't tend to creep up under the slabs by capillary action as PJ will. I check the epoxy periodically as it sets with a tooth pick. When it turns rubbery I just skim it off with a bamboo skewer that I've sharpened to a wedge. Peels right off, no muss, no fuss.
I use the same technique on stick tangs both "through" and "blind" applications. Do a final dry-fit run paint the junctions with wax; dissassemble carefully; glue-up then clean up as in above. Usually tape up the bulk of the handle and just wax the junction areas.
Have not had to use clean up solvents with this method and the wax is just a bonus to the followup waxing when knife is completed.
Ed and everyone else - David is spot on! Acetone does do surface damage to your skin by removing natural oils, but the real damage is to your liver. That is where it goes once it clears your natural oil barriers in your skin. The liver damage is accumulative and non reversible. Acetone also enters your system through vapor via your lungs...so quit sniffing the stuff you "closet junkies"!
I do not know how much exposure it takes to really mess you up, but combined with all the other stuff we mess with on a daily basis, it can't be good at any dose. Yes, I have it in the shop and use it on occasion, but have greatly modified my exposure once I found all this out during a Hazmat training course years back.
I am aware that a lot of sheathmakers and leather workers use it for deglazing leather. I do not reccomend it's use there either.