[Ray Rogers]

Jack,

Tread carefully here. First, you don't need a guide to do bevels. Some guys use them but even more guys do not. Nothing wrong with using one but they do limit you a bit to doing only what that particular guide is designed to do. If you learn to grind or file freehand then you don't have those limitations.

Beyond that, you are probably getting confused because you are looking at three different types of guides for three different purposes. The first type you mentioned was one that you would like to have so that you could use your Grizzly to do the bevels. Those do exist but they are quite expensive if you buy a commercial one, about $250 the last time I looked. Of course, there are simpler ones that you might build yourself. All of the guides that you might use to grind bevels on your Grizzly will take some effort to set up and use. They are not really plug and play devices. In the end, they may be a little easier than grinding freehand at first but learning to grind freehand should be your goal.

The jig you see from Dan is obviously intended to use by hand with files rather than with a powered grinder. Dan may have just quickly put the file and blade on there just to make that picture. To really use it either a longer file would be needed or move the blade up some. Take this stuff as a general guide line rather than literally.

The third guide you see from Kevster is not for grinding bevels, it is for setting a plunge cut. It is usually used with files and is the most common example of the jig normally called a file guide. These guides can also be used with your Grizzly to set your plunge cut but the file guide will probably get ground up a little at the same time.

There really is no big deal to grinding a bevel, especially if you start with a full flat ground blade. You should do at least one with a file to teach yourself the process. Then you can do the same process on the Grizzly only much faster. There are many tutorials around and lots of confusing and conflicting information on grinding. Here is what may be the simplest explanation of grinding a full flat ground blade with a file that you'll ever get, and this is true whether you grind with a jig or freehand:

Jack, do ONE blade start to finish. You always try to do too much at one time, stop it!

Scribe a center line on the edge of the blade.

Secure the blade so that it can't move (clamp to table, vise, whatever works for you)

Use a good file all along the edge on one side until you almost reach the center line.

Now, go over it again and widen that grind you just did moving it another 1/8 or 1/4 inch higher.

Keep doing that until your grind reaches but does not cut into the blade's spine

You now have a full flat grind all the way across your blade.

With a good file and a 3" or 4" blade you should be able to easily do this in less than 30 minutes. On a grinder it will go much faster than that. And, not once during this process did you have to worry about exactly what angle you were grinding or exactly how you were holding the file....