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Markus40...My comment is limited to the problem of warping. Generally speaking, all forging or grinding should be done as evenly as possible on the blade. If you're grinding predominately on one side more than the other, that could be the cause of the warping. I forge my blades....and I have never tried to work with any saw blade materials, but in my forging and heat treating, I have found that treating each side in a similar manner helps with the warping. I usually forge to my satisfaction, do a "very close to finish grind", and then normalize the blade prior to the heat treatment cycle. This is done in an attempt to reduce to the greatest extent possible all of the residual stresses which have been introduced up to that point in my process. Using this technique, I have had very little warping or cracking in my blades. To date, all of my blades have been either 1080, 5160, or 52100 steel, and I use Parks 50 as a quenching medium. I have tried both heated and ambient oil with basically the same results, but Ed has indicated that it is not necessary to preheat the Parks 50 oil. Also, by using a worn concrete or masonry blade, there is no way of determining what the stress level is in the blade when you receive it....which leads me to think that it is even more important that the steel be normalized prior to the heat treat cycle. The tendency to warp or crack is caused by internal stresses that reside within the steel. Anything that you do to introduce stress needs to be cancelled out before heat treat.
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