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Old 01-22-2016, 10:50 AM
samuraistuart samuraistuart is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 163
Welcome David! As you have probably figured out, the reason why we recommend 1080 series for beginners is because their heat treat set up is usually primitive, and it's hard to soak blades in a paint can forge, which 1095 should receive (soak). 1080 doesn't need soak, so equalize, quench.....easy for beginners.

But you're going to be using a kiln.....so use that 1095 up!

As far as normalizing....this is needed when the steel has been forged, OR, the steel is heavily spheroidized from the factory. 52100 is usually coarse spheroidized, and should get normalized. 1095 is usually fine spheroidized, and as such doesn't need normalizing. This you will know only when you fail to reach max hardness out of quench. I personally normalize and thermal cycle ALL spring steels and 52100, regardless. That way I know exactly how the steel is set up for hardening. For now, I would say that Admiral's 1095 does NOT need it....but I'll let others who have actually used the admiral 1095 fill you in on that.

1095 needs a very fast quench oil. Or Brine. Never straight water. Parks 50, DT48, or even 130f canola (not ideal but it works). As you indicated, it is the quenchants job to bring down the steel to 900 in under a second....that has nothing to do with the time it takes to move the blade from heat to oil. I leave it in for a slow 7 count, take out and straighten in needed, back into oil to cool down to room temp.

Yes, temper as soon as it's room temp or just above. Shouldn't be a delay. If you don't have time to do the full temper cycle until tomorrow, run at least 30 minutes at 300f for a quick stress relief.

I would start my tempers MUCH lower than 450f, then check and see where you are. 400f should bring you down to 60-61. If you want to reduce RC more than that, then jump up.

Bring the kiln up to 1475 and place the blade in the kiln once it's warm. It's not a good idea to put it in cold, then ramp up. Always.....warm kiln up, then insert blade. Once the readout has rebounded to your aust temp, then start soak time. 10 minutes plenty with 1095. Now higher alloy steels like stainless and even A2 tool steel, some recommend a pre heat of a certain temp, and then ramp up to aust temp. For example, some alloys may say insert blade at 1400f, equalize, ramp up to 1750 and hold for 30 minutes, quench. This has to do with the alloying in the steel, the more alloying, the more complex the heat treat. But 1095 is about as simple as it gets. I've heard that putting a blade into a cold kiln and then ramping up is not conducive to a fine grain structure.

I turn on my tempering oven when I turn on my kiln. That way it's at my tempering temp when I'm ready to temper.

Between temper cycles, I actually quench the blade in water, but that has nothing to do with metallurgical benefit, and if there is any I don't know it. I quench so I can grab a hold of it quickly, and start the next cycle. You can air cool or quench it in water....your call.

I think its AWESOME you're detail oriented and ready to dive into this head first! There are lots of good guys who know their stuff here who can help with anything you might need.

Last edited by samuraistuart; 01-22-2016 at 10:55 AM.
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