Your torch entry angle looks a bit high to hit the inside chamber tangent if you use two rounds of Kaowool. It will also likely cause a hot spot on the interior roof and eventually cause degradation and burn out of the top of the forge. I'd suggest dropping the angle-in, so that you are "aimed" at a tangent 2" below the metal tank ceiling and just inside the K-wool liner. Easier now than later with the lining in place, same with the hinge thing.
Doug brings up some good points. With no restriction control at the door, in a blown forge you are going to need some really long handled tongs to retrieve your work piece. And you will probably find out like so many others, a small closeable "back door" is really nice, especially if you decide to do a large bowie or short sword, etc.
Whatever the case, do not become discouraged, pay attention to what you have done and what works - your next forges will be even better (and you will make more). Making your own forge will give you so much better understanding of how one works and how to control the heat factors. It's worth all the effort.
Another observation - once you mount your torch to the tank you might have to add additional support to counter the added weight on one side. If you want to keep it portable (based on the handle) you'll need to enlarge the base. There's a million ways to do this stuff as you have probably already seen. Sort through it and use what you need/want just stick to the science that makes it work and don't catch your pants on fire.
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Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith
Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member
Knifemakers Guild, voting member
Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts
C Rex Custom Knives
Blade Show Table 6-H
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