[Crex]

Looking pretty good Brother Wade.
Ed's point-on with the handle shape. Just get a big pine board and start cutting, it will become obvious quite quickly and if you are paying attention to your hand you will quickly discover where the "harsh" points are.

On the mosaic pin - depending on the pin material (if steel forget this), carefully center punch and drill out the pin from both sides about 1/3 way through the scale on each side. Go slow and use a sharp bit to reduce the chance of friction heat destroying the epoxy integrety. If successful, follow up with the correct size brad-point bit for the mosaic pin. Rough the outside of the mosaic a little and epoxy in place. Make sure you cut the section of mosaic to stand a little proud of the handle for a good final flush finish.
Note: not as strong as a complete through pin, but if the epoxy joint and initial pin fit were good, this would in effect, be a hidden pin construction, and should be sufficient for a light to medium duty knife of that size.

That aside, a full through pin would be stronger, however redrilling through the O1 to enlarge the size (unless you use a good carbide bit when you hit steel) will probably end in badly for the handle material and your temperment.

Had a great Trackrock weekend. Maybe someone will post some pictures on the Ga Guild Forum. Hope Texas is treating you well friend.