A maker can use a set of vice grips, a propane torch, a hanging magnet, a disposable foil type loaf pan (from any grocery store), olive oil, and any stove to heat treat 1095.
Forgive me if this is elementary, but I'm not versed on everyones experience levels here.
-It's best to get two of the foil loaf pans (they are ussually sold in pairs anyway for a couple of bucks).
-Fill them with the olive oil.
-Heat a scrap clean chunk of steel until it is glowing and use it to warm of the oil.
-Holding your blade (finished with 120 grit to 80% of final thinness) with the vice grips clamped at the tip of the tang and angled so you can dunk it easily, start heating your blade with the torch.
*1095 is not the best candidate for a stop block 'roll the edge' type quench as seen in videos and books using steels like 1084, 52100, or 5160. A better approach for this steel is to dunk the entire edge at once--no rocking or rolling. So, be sure that if you decide to use a stop block, you have it at a depth that allows the entire edge to go below the surface of the oil from behind the tip to behind the choil. I don't use a stop block myself, but they provide for very crisp hamon lines if you etch your finished blade.
-Get your steel up to critical temp (check this with the hanging magnet) As soon as it goes non-magnetic, you're there. Don't let it cool even for a second! Get to critical and quench in warmed oil. Don't move if for several seconds, just let it sizzle. Then goes side to side just a bit to move the oil around.
-After a few minutes, pull it out, wipe it off, use a wire brush if needed, and maybe a scrap of 120 grit to clean it up a bit. Visually check for warping or cracking.
-Vice it up by the tang in a bench vice and use a fine file to just glide it along the hardened edge with no real pressure. The file should 'skitter' across without wanting to bite at every point along the edge, from any angle. If so, congrats! You just hardened steel!
-Temper in a PREHEATED oven. I like 450* for one hour on small utilities. 475* for one hour, then cool, then repeat for larger or very thin blades. You will end up in the 58RC range. That's a good working edge hardness.
I have a Paragon KM24 digital HT furnace and a Rockwell hardness testerthat I use for stainless and high allow stuff, but this is STILL basically how I HT 1095. It just works.
This is an example of such a HT procedure (etched in Radio Shack variety FC).
There are plenty of other methods..., this is one.