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-   -   Drill bit sizes? (http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63129)

Kevster 01-14-2014 06:53 PM

Drill bit sizes?
 
What size bit should I get to drill pin holes?

If I use a 1/4 cobalt bit to drill my pin holes it's just to tight.

So, what bits should I order for.

1/8
3/32
5/32
1/4

I know they are #'s but what are they? I'm getting tired of drilling holes twice.

Thanks

Seemus7 01-14-2014 07:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
You might find this handy.

Ray Rogers 01-14-2014 07:17 PM

Gather round, children, and listen up: if you do not yet own a drill chart go get one. Many places give them away for free but even if you buy one its hard to spend more than $3 so there's no excuse for not having one. I have one on my shop wall as big as a movie poster and a small laminated one right here next to the computer which I will use to answer Kev's question.

With the chart you can see the size in decimal of every drill that exists so, for example, Kev could look at a 1/8 drill and see that is.125 in decimal, he wants a clearance size hole for his pins so lets look for something about 5 thou larger than that. We see that a #30 drill is .1285 so that's 3.5 thou over and thats good enough. If you insist on the full 5 thou over then we see that a 3.3mm drill is .1299 and that's 4.99 thou so there you go. If you get really rabid about a specialty size MSC will sell you a drill sized by HALF a thou in any size you want.

These charts also show drill sizes for tapping holes of any reasonable size we would need. Get one of these charts and learn to luv it! It's also a good idea to own a dial caliper, while we're on the subject of drill sizes. Not all of your pin stock is nominal (that means a 1/8 pin might actually be .128 if you measured it). If it isn't then your usual #30 won't give you clearance. So, you measure with the dial caliper and then get a drill that will clear whatever you measured. Get a standard dial caliper in either 4" or 6" capacity - just a simple mechanical one, no digital. These can be had for under $15, or $20 if you get a really nice one. I have a $150 Starrett and an $11 Chinese one and they both read the same on the small stuff we work with so there's no excuse for not having these tools.

3/32 .0938 #40 (loose fit) #41 (close fit)
5/32 .1562 #21
1/4 .2500 F (.2570) 6.5mm (.2559)

Kevster 01-14-2014 07:24 PM

Thanks gentlemen, I do own a caliper and I use it regularily, I can drill the steel and the pin slides right through, in the wood not so much.

Thanks for the chart fellas!

Kevster 01-14-2014 08:19 PM

I just looked on jantz's site and they are out of stock on some of the bits I need, Do y'all have any other recommendations on where I can look?

Ray Rogers 01-14-2014 08:40 PM

MSC or Enco. An MSC printed catalog is a thing of beauty and a wonder to behold.....not to mention a terrific education in all subjects related to what you are talking about in this thread. Nobody but a machinist supply will have all these weird little drills we are talking about here...

Icho 01-14-2014 09:35 PM

Quote:

, I can drill the steel and the pin slides right through, in the wood not so much.
I find the same thing happens to me. The wood "stretches" around the drill bit a couple thousands of an inch wheras the steel actually gets cut to size. I kind of like that it does that because I roll a piece of sand paper real tight so it just fits the drilled hole in the handle material and kind of hone it out by hand so that I get the fit I want. it may be extra work but it makes me feel better

fuzzy 01-15-2014 06:24 AM

check your drillpress some have a chart on them

DanCom 01-18-2014 09:12 PM

Something that worked for me...after the holes are drilled and heat treatment done. My 1/8" holes were just too tight for mosaic pins to go in. There was no way I was going to be able to enlarge the hole that tiny amount with a drill bit.

I used a diamond coated die grinder bit to enlarge holes a smidgen. I set the bit in the chuck on the drill press and worked it in a circular motion a few times around and the pins slipped through.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f54qpkRcTZ...ie+grinder.jpg


Where there's a will there's a way. Perhaps not the best way though.

:)

Dan

TexasJack 01-18-2014 11:22 PM

I'm surprised at this thread. The easiest solution - taught to me a long time ago by an old knifemaker - is to drill the hole and then gently sand down the pin until it fits.

Pin stock is never perfectly sized throughout it's length. You want it to fit tightly, but there's a practical limit to that. Sand-to-fit makes it work.

DanCom 01-19-2014 05:34 AM

Jack,

Yes this is great advice. With regular brass stock a spin on the slack belt would be fine. Even better if you do this before you cut them to length.

In my case the wall of the mosaic pin was so thin I could risk disfiguring it and yes, they were already cut to about an inch long. It was much easier to enlarge the holes.

Dan

Kevster 01-19-2014 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasJack (Post 468407)
I'm surprised at this thread. The easiest solution - taught to me a long time ago by an old knifemaker - is to drill the hole and then gently sand down the pin until it fits.

Pin stock is never perfectly sized throughout it's length. You want it to fit tightly, but there's a practical limit to that. Sand-to-fit makes it work.

That is a good idea, especially if you put the pins in a drill press and sand them, but drilling the hole 1 time is the easiest solution.

Shi_Fu_Elusive 02-18-2014 09:12 PM

Quick qustion, on MSC site it shows holemaking drill bits in several categories that include Jobber Length, Screw Machine Length, Taper Length, etc.

Which is the correct category for me to buy?

Thanks!
-Scott

argel55 02-18-2014 09:31 PM

3/32 # 40
1/8 #30
1/4 f drill

Shi_Fu_Elusive 02-18-2014 09:52 PM

Thanks for the reply Argel55!

So the categories are not important? (i.e. Jobber Length, Screw Machine Length, Taper Length, etc.)

-Scott


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